“Remembering me, I would like a smile because i have been pleased.”
Edith Jiménez promptly suggested the Museo Ranchero in the rural community of La Candelaria as the location for the interview with Oscar Ortiz. This place is significant for the restaurateur, chef, and Southern Californian regional cuisine researcher. We visited during the late afternoon to capture the best lighting for the photographs and video shots. Upon our arrival, Edith informed us that the museum had once been the residence of the town’s healer, a profession deeply connected with her. The restoration of this place, which has been underway for some time, aims to showcase regional cuisine and exhibit local artisanal pieces.
Edith and Oscar’s conversation was so friendly, pleasant, and warm that it continued into the evening. Despite the fading light, we felt at ease, taking in the vastness of the night sky filled with stars as Edith generously shared her life story with us. Her narrative felt like a magical tale, brimming with memories and meaningful coincidences.
Oscar, a Tendencia’s editorial board member, is an attentive listener and professional photographer. He serves as our official guide for trips around the Baja California peninsula. With his expertise in Baja California and Baja California Sur, he specializes in creating personalized experiences by land and sea. Oscar is passionate about the integral connection with nature and prioritizes sustainability. In addition to his guiding work, he has exhibited some of his travel photography collections, which has left a strong impression on Edith, as she mentioned at the beginning of the interview
“I was born in Sierra Madre del Sur, Guerrero, in 1962. I think it was a very precious time. Times have changed. From my birthplace, what I learned, ate and saw is what I have in my mind and what I have tattooed on my skin”.
Oscar: “What memories do you have from your childhood in Guerrero?”
Edith: “My father moved to Acapulco when I was four years old, and my mother also left, so I stayed with my grandparents. My older sisters, who were10 or 12 years old at the time, then took care of me. They weren’t like my mother but did their best to look after me. I come from a family of 11, and at that young age, everyone had their role in the family. I fondly remember my grandmother, María Morales, a hardworking and daring Indigenous woman. She taught me many things, like washing in the river, tending to crops, and preparing nixtamal (limed kernels of corn ready to be ground into masa). She even taught me how to carry pots on my head. One of my favorite memory is when she taught me how to ride a donkey, and we would travel to the nearby town of Quechultenango to buy supplies we didn’t have on the ranch, like chilli peppers.”
In the village, barter was used as a form of exchange. Edith’s family used to buy eggs because her grandfather had about 200 hens. Part of the planted corn was for the chickens, and part of the routine on the ranch was milking, making cheese, jocoque (a Mexican dairy product based on fermented milk, somewhat like strained yoghurt), and cottage cheese. “I focus on the food because that is what I remember most. There was always glass in the centre of the tables, which contained branches with cilantro, papalo, or pipicha, whatever the mountains provided. We ate what was grown: corn, black beans, squash, and chilli. That was never missing from the table.”
Oscar: What connection do you see between this rescued house, once home to the healer of La Candelaria and now the museo ranchero, and your grandfather?
Edith: “My grandfather was a healer, known as a witch doctor in our land, and my grandmother worked in the house doing chores and cooking. She taught me how to season food, and everything she made was delicious. People from many towns would visit my grandfather to be healed. He cured me two or three times using simple methods, such as praying for me. One time, I got scared by a bull while I was walking alone in the mountains. The bull saw me and started coming towards me because I was wearing a red bandana, and they had sent me to look for the calves. Since I was good at climbing trees, I quickly climbed up a tree and stayed there until they found me. That day, my grandfather cured me when I came home with a headache. Another time, I had a toothache, and he cured me again. Each time, I fell asleep and woke up feeling better, as if nothing had happened.”
Oscar: What can you tell us about your mother?
Edith: “When my mother came from Acapulco, she would bake the most amazing bread. She had made herself an oven exclusively for baking bread. She had orchards with avocado and mango trees; you can see everything in these orchards now. Every year, she would also do the milling”.
At 7, Edith moved to Acapulco to start elementary school. She recalls feeling overwhelmed by the many people and missing the freedom of life on the ranch. This transition marked the beginning of her academic struggles, as she found it challenging to focus on her studies because her mind was preoccupied with fantasies.
When she was nine years old, little Edith took on her first job when she saw a lack of economic resources. She began caring for children in a household and fetching water from a well. During this time, she was exposed to new and unfamiliar foods, discovering new flavors. Edith used her first paycheck to buy toys for her siblings. From that moment on, she says she has never stopped working.
Oscar: How did you get to Los Cabos?
Edith: “We travelled by bus from Acapulco to Puerto Vallarta, and at that time, there was a boat that travelled from Vallarta to Cabo San Lucas, which no longer exists today. We were a few kilometres away from Los Cabos and could see the dry rocks and barren land from a distance. It was scorched, with no visible plant life. Suddenly, my eyes started to tear up without any warning. I wondered why I was crying and then realized it was because I had never left a tropical place before; I had always been surrounded by greenery. Seeing those barren hills made me feel like I was arriving on the moon or Mars. I started worrying about what we would eat and how we would survive in such a place, and the tears kept flowing. However, as we entered the bay and saw the Arch and the crystal-clear water and fish, my tears dried up as if by magic, and I began to appreciate our arrival. This was47 years ago, and the beauty and enormity of what I saw that day were indescribable. It was truly marvellous. I felt so moved and thought, “This is where I want to spend the rest of my life.” From that moment on, I became the queen of Médano”.
Edith’s uncle, who worked at the Hyatt hotel, helped her get a job through the Confederación Revolucionaria de obreros y campesinos Los Cabos, Croc, at the hotel Mar de Cortés as a waitress, which marked the start of a prosperous career.at 15, she began working in restaurants, immersing herself in the gastronomy and love for Baja California Sur. She quickly realized that smiling was the best way to earn better tips, so she delved into the culinary world and administration.
“Owning a restaurant is quite different from working in one; the business responsibilities are rather substantial. Despite The Office gaining fame, they never thought their food differed from the local, tasty, and fresh offerings. The menu featured breaded shrimp, chicken burritos, fish with garlic mojo, and hamburgers, each prepared with four different proteins.”
Presently, Edith oversees 450 employees in her restaurants and takes pride in the team she has built, maintaining an impressively low 5% turnover rate.
Oscar: Do you have a favorite location among your restaurants, or do you feel particularly attached to one?
Edith: “There is no one favorite. It’s like having your children. Maybe you have an affinity with one of them, but they are all your children. The Office has been my teacher because we have operated it for 37 years”.
Edith is a passionate traveler and adventure lover who has dedicated much of her time to exploring the fascinating peninsula of Baja California Sur. With a restless spirit and a deep love for nature and culture, she has documented her experiences of the natural and cultural richness of the state. Her approach to travel goes beyond traditional tourism; she immerses herself in local life, getting to know the communities and learning about their traditions, gastronomy, trades, and crafts. This approach allows her to offer an authentic and enriching perspective on what it means to live and travel in Baja California Sur.
“To talk about the state is to speak about Maijañui A.C., our civil association, for which I started research when I was 19 or 20 years old”, she says. The organization’s primary purpose is to research, rescue, and safeguard local traditional cuisines and disseminate the uses, customs, products, and cultural and gastronomic practices that constitute the pillar of Baja California Sur’s cuisine”
The history of la Candelaria dates back a long time. Last year, the Sabor a Cabo rural event was held, which celebrates the cuisine of Baja California Sur and preserves its traditions. The most recent event occurred in March of this year at Huerta Maijañui and included horseback riding. “Maijañui’s house is located here, where we are sitting. We are working to preserve the orchards and the traditions of all the oases in the state. Here, we grow sugar cane and have a mill. Every year, we have the La Candelaria festival on February 2. In the future, we are considering having a mango festival, not as much as a fair but as a celebration.”
Oscar: how did Sabor a Cabo start?
Edith: “Sabor a Cabo is the brainchild of CANIRAC. One morning, while I was working in my office, they approached me to become the president of CANIRAC (National Chamber of Seasoned Foods). I was surprised but couldn’t refuse the offer because I always enjoy learning new things. CANIRAC is the chamber that addresses the industry’s gastronomic, administrative, and political aspects. I recalled a conversation with firefighters who mentioned that restaurateurs generally did not collaborate with them. This revelation has underscored the importance of hosting a festival to show our support for the firefighters. Our group was very cohesive, and we worked harmoniously. Carmen Carbajal also joined the group and readily agreed to participate. We raised funds as they came in, and every penny collected was used for the donation.”
Oscar: When did Sabor a Cabo Rural come about?
Edith: “In 2012, Sabor a Cabo Rural, was introduced. We revived it last year, and a bigger Sabor a Cabo Rural, was born with much more knowledge. We included a horseback ride from Migriño to the orchards, which took place in La Candelaria. We had various chefs from all over the state. As artisans, we had people from Miraflores, like Don Felix, who provided the chairs we sat on. Once again, we showcased South Californian dishes and had live music, including norteña and sierreña. All the tickets were sold out. I believe the event was very successful.”
Oscar: And after working so hard for your restaurants and the preservation of Southern California traditions, how would you like to be remembered in terms of your family? What legacy do you want to leave for your children and grandchildren?
Edith: “When it comes to leaving a legacy, my focus extends beyond my family to include the community and the world. Over time, I’ve found a deep sense of peace and contentment. Now, with my grandchildren, I prioritize spending quality time with my grandson when considering travel. It’s a matter of personal preference. I hope those close to me will remember me with a smile, knowing I’ve found true happiness. How would you remember me?”
Immediately before answering, Oscar’s face lights up with a smile.
